Views from Sacha Lodge

Mini pink bananas on one of the plants in the grounds. They do not feed the animals as it encourages them to steal (especially the monkeys) but they do leave the fruit for them to harvest - and the guests get the pleasure of seeing them while walking round the grounds. Great!

Many trees shed their bank annually to rid themselves of pests and parasites but many grow sharp thorns to deter climbers (animals and climbing plants)

Name the beetle? Is it a Rhino or a Goliath beetle? I think the former, as I could not find any orange Goliath Beetles in my research.

The bar!

Poison Arrow frog. They used to kill these little mites for their poison - used to kill monkeys for food.

Spot the monkey? Mandarin I think

Saturday 25 Feb 2012.

Breakfast was at 6 and they came to knock on cabin doors at 5.30. Our walk started at 6.30 and we were told that we would not need wellington boots as it had not rained the previous night. We set off for the canopy walkway – which is actually 3 towers, each 120ft above the forest floor, connected by walkways each 900ft long. From the towers and walkway you look out over the tops of the trees and can see the birds flying and hear the monkeys and other animals. While observing the monkeys and birds our “camera crew” constantly complained of people talking or walking round the tower, as it was interfering with their recording. As usual, there was no polite request nor word of thanks. They are really getting on people’s nerves. We had only been on the first tower for about 20 minutes when the sky darkened and thunder rolled. The raindrops were fat and heavy and by the time we reached the ground we were soaked. We took shelter under a lean-to with a corrugated iron roof for about 15 minutes, then our guide, Effy, said we might as well make our way back to the lodge as it was likely to rain until 11am (it was then about 8.15). Despite being issued with ponchos we got soaked to the skin, walking in water-logged shoes before we were a quarter of the way back. Our shoes did not dry out until wearing them on the flight back to Quito 2 days later. The rain did stop at about 9.30am and we set out in the canoe at 11am for a trip down one of the small tributaries to the lake. This was fantastic as our pace was slow and we could see the orchids and bromeliads growing on the trees, pink water-snail eggs on the leaves, monkeys in the trees etc. Unfortunately it started to rain again at 11.45 so we hurried back to the lodge. At lunchtime Jan and I spoke to the Manager to say that we were unhappy about our “camera crew” and also running for cover every time it rained – in a rain forest! Other groups had not returned to take shelter but had continued regardless. The rain was not cold at all. Our afternoon walk at 3.30 was in glorious sunshine. We went on the “Medicinal Tour” with Ernesto, our local guide showing us all the trees and plants used by the indigenous people. We went along the Anaconda river and saw a family of howler monkeys not far from the bank, one large male, several juveniles and one carrying a tiny baby. Effy then indicated that other monkeys were approaching and manoeuvred the canoe round a bend and we waited, watching the trees move as a troup of 200+ squirrel monkeys came towards us and crossed the river, jumping from bough to branch over our heads. It took about 10 minutes for them all to cross. Magical !!! We got back at 6.15 and went out again at 7pm (in the dark) to see the fishing bats which flew directly at us and veered off at the last minute, skimming our heads (you could feel the air stir as they passed). We also saw a baby caiman (alligator family), a 10ft caiman in the lake, fire flies etc. Effy also pointed out the star constellations and satellites in the night sky, which was free from any light pollution, so deep in the forest.

Tree-top walkway deep in the Amazon Rainforest at Sacha Lodge

View from the top of the tree-top platform, 120ft above the forest floor. Taken at approx 7am

Rat-like Aguti as it scurried past our veranda - it came 2 days running, so I think it knows a source of food somewhere!

View from our veranda - into the rain forest. Should have taken a video clip so you could hear the amazing sounds of monkeys, birds, crickets, frogs!

Fri 24 Feb 2012.

Left hotel at 8.30. Did not have tickets for us until after everyone else, so a little anxious. Flight left 30 minutes late at 11.30. Lunch in Coco was disappointing – poor packed lunch with not enough seats for everyone. The 2-hour river trip was lovely but a bit too fast and noisy for enjoyment. Got stung by soldier ant on my knee while standing on the walkway listening to instructions from the guide from Sacha. The 20 minute walk was fascinating but a little hurried, the 6-man canoe ride across the lake was wonderful, peaceful and calming. Again, the staff at Sacha did not know about Jan and myself, but allowed us to use the Smith’s room!!! As we were a group of 14, with the majority wanting general all-round activities and only 3 wanting specialist bird-watching activities, we were told to sort ourselves out and split into 2 groups of 7 !!! Not what we had expected or wanted for the price we had paid!! We ended up as a group of 8 and one of 6. Jan and I ended up with Martin and the “camera crew”. Martin – great. Camera crew – enough said!!! My group went first to the butterfly breeding centre and later for a walk in the dark (with torches) where we saw several tarantula spiders, tree frogs, stick insects, crickets etc. The spiders were all round the butterfly house, trying to get in to eat the pupae. The cabins at Sacha are great. There are no windows, just fly netting to keep the insects out and a large veranda complete with hammock, As we were cabin 26 (the last one on the camp) we had a great view into the forest and could hear the howler monkeys, birds, cicadas etc. We even had an aguti and 2 small aguchis walking past the veranda (they are like large cats but look more like rats).

First to board the canoes to take us to Sacha Lodge after the 2-hr covered, motorised canoe ride down the Napa River

One of the many butterflies in the butterfly farm at Sacha - they breed and export pupae to all parts of the world. They also grow the food plants for their butterflies. This is apparently one of the largest butterfly farms in S. America

A small tree frog seen on our night walk into the forest, just before he jumped!! The noise they make far outweighs their size!!

A tarrantula spider trying to get into the butterfly farm to eat the pupae - he was about the size of the palm of my hand (no I did not put him on my hand to judge his size!). We saw 3 different tarrantulas on our night walk into the forest.

Thursday 23rd Feb 2012. Antisanna

Left hotel at 6.45 in minibus. Stopped en-route near quarry and saw spectacled white-start, tufted tit-tyrant, giant hummingbird and others. Later saw condors soaring overhead on the thermals, caracaras and ibis on a plain covered in wild flowers. At lunchtime went to the ruined and abandoned hacienda where Von Humboldt had lived (there was a plaque on the wall but animals were sheltering in the rooms). Lots of wild flowers including mini crocus. Felt dizzy and nauseous due to altitude. Views were spectacular though walking along the road with quarry lorries thundering past was not ideal for bird-watching! It was a long day!

Wednesday 22nd Feb 2012.

Day of departure from Cachalote. Got up at 5am to pouring rain. We should have visited North Seymour Island for a one-hour walkabout, but all voted to forego the pleasure due to the weather. Left Cachalote at 8am for our 11.25 flight. Stood around for an hour on the dockside waiting for the bus to the airport. Once there, while looking for last-minute souvenirs, Jan and I were approached by a man who admired our Tilley Hats, then told us he was Alex Tilley, the designer and manufacturer! As they were made in Canada we felt it quite remarkable to meet him on Balta Island in the Galapagos! I told him that his hat had saved me from a more serious head wound and he asked that I email him to detail the incident, then he signed our hats (at our request). We were met by Raoul in Quito and he handed out room keys and flight details for the journey to Sacha Lodge. Unfortunately, he had no details for Jan and myself as there had been a mix-up and he thought the Smiths were going to Sacha and Jan and I were travelling home. Raoul promised to sort it out. Went out and had fantastic steak and salad with a glass of red wine!!

Tuesday 21 Feb 2012. Santiago and Bartolome Island

Wet landing onto the beach at 7.45 but took walking shoes. This used to be a salt-mining area and we could see evidence of human habitation. The caves and lava tunnels were spectacular, forming arches over the sea – we watched sea lions and fur seals in one of the caves (open to the sky) on ledges with the sea surging in and out. The rocks were a bit slippery. Went swimming from the beach – the sand was again a bit hot! We watched fascinated as 2 sea lions blew millions of bubbles into a cave trying to dislodge some fish. The bubbles were streaming and glistening to the surface and, every now and then, one of the sea lions would shoot up to the surface and fully out of the sea, then dive straight back down to recommence blowing bubbles. Someone saw a shark coming out of the cleft in the same cave, but I did not. On the way back to the beach, Jan and I saw a marine iguana swimming and I followed, viewing it from underneath – quite exciting! 11.45 went to Buccaneer’s Cove and then Bartolome Island and the climb to view Pinnacle Rock, the most famous of the landmarks on the Galapagos Islands.

Hilary on the slope and 731 steps which lead to the top of the hill overlooking Pinnacle Rock

A sunken volcanic cone seen from the 731 steps

The intrepid explorer - view to Pinnacle Rock

Jan on a lava tunnel bridge - looks precarious but was sound as a rock!!

Monday 20 Feb 2012.

Spent the night anchored in the calm and peaceful bay, lovely sunsets. Weighed anchor at 6am and motored to Fernandina Island. This island has the largest colony of marine iguanas, the last volcanic activity was in April 2009 and it is one of the most active islands with the coast rising 3-10cm per year. We saw a huge colony of marine iguanas digging out and fighting over nesting holes. A Galapagos hawk flew over hunting and the iguanas all scattered – one running over m y foot! The females were fat with between 1-5 eggs, the males were in a bachelor group sunning themselves. The snorkelling was different – the water was very clear but VERY shallow with algae-covered rocks just below my belly and little room to use my flippers. In the afternoon we had a 2hr “navigation” back to Isabela Island – to Black Turtle Beach (black rocks, green turtles!) at Vicente Roca Point. We could not land but went on a panga ride at 2pm into the cave where we saw a sea lion resting on a ledge about 12ft above the water, with no apparent means of getting up there! Also saw an octopus climbing the wall inside the cave and blue boobies nesting on the ledges outside. Snorkelling from the panga I saw a a huge green turtle within touching distance but did not stay in for long as we were getting stung with jelly fish. On our flight from Quito-Miami Jan and I sat next to a Canadian Zoologist and tour guide(Chris) who had been on the M/S Baluga with Darwin a couple of times, and he told us of an incident at the cave by Black Turtle Beach: He had been snorkelling with his 14-year-old son and dived down to take a photo of a pelican from underwater. Looking up he could no longer see the pelican but was then hit very hard on the leg by an unknown creature. He surfaced and called the panga to get everyone out of the water. He was last to board, making sure all his clients were safely on board first. His son, who had witnessed the incident from the surface, through his snorkelling mask, told h is Dad that he had been hit by a big shark. Darwin went down and searched the area from underwater and reported seeing a large Galapagos shark in the cave. Darwin’s theory was that the shark had seen reflection off Chris’s underwater camera and had attacked assuming he was a fish but breaking off its attack when it realised Chris was not a fish and too big for it to swallow whole!! He did however take the skin off Chris’s shin with his rough hide. We crossed the equator again and had a celebratory cocktail of amaretto and orange juice in the bridge as the GPS showed 00:00. Arrived in Puerto Egas at 11pm doing 11 nots

Marine iguanas dripping off the rocks

The cave (old lava tunnel) at Black Turtle Beach, Vicente Rocha Point where Chris was hit by a shark!

Crossing the Equator (for the third time!) We cross it again during the evening.

Sunday 19 Feb 2012.

on Isabela Island but now in Urbina Bay. We stayed at anchor last night and left at 5.30am, anchored again at 7.30. Another wet landing (but taking walking shoes) at 7.45.

We saw a green sea turtle still in her nest either digging or covering eggs. There were lots of giant tortoise and huge land iguanas. The island rose 5m due to volcanic activity/eruption of Alcedo volcano in 1954 and lots of marine life was stranded and died. There were remains of coral and bones of sharks and other fish. The coast moved 1km further out to sea. It was strange to snorkel in the rain!! We moved to Tagus Cove at about 11am and Martin and myself went kayaking at 2pm – Darwin saw a galapagus shark below my kayak but I was absorbed with the fun of staying upright and kayaking!! This cove had been used by ships since the 1800s. The trail leads up past Laguna Darwin. The landing was very difficult – when we left the Cachalote it was flat calm but within 5 minutes there was a fair swell in the bay which Darwin said was due to seismic acitivy.

There was a sea lion half way up the wooden steps and we had to step over her!! She was still there when we returned but slipped into the sea as we boarded our pangas.

It rained while we were on the way up, but the view over Darwin’s lake was spectacular. While snorkelling off the panga later I saw another green turtle feeding, chocolate chip starfish and lots of others, sea urchins, parrot fish clicking noisily and a flightless cormorant swimming for fish underwater.

Saturday 18 Feb 2012. Morning - Moreno Point. Afternoon - Elizabeth Bay

The landscape here was very dramatic. The lava is 3,000 years old but there is little general vegetation other than lava cacti. However there were several small pools with dense vegetation and wildlife including flamingos, a moorhen nesting on a ledge in a cave, turtles etc. All the water comes from the sea via caves and lava tunnels. Darwin said that the water in these pools has a high saline content due to evaporation and the animals adapt by having enlarged kidneys to cope with the extra salt. You cannot land in Elizabeth Bay which is really a collection of lagoons and mangrove inlets, difficult for the panga driver to negotiate! On our panga ride we saw a fairly large spotted eagle ray, penguins and marine turtles. We sat inn the lagoons for a long time looking at the wildlife – very calming, despite the mosquitos!! The snorkelling at Moreno Point in the morning was a little disappointing (compared to other sites!) as visibility was poor. Darwin pointed out a large sea horse attached to some weed, but it was too murky for me to make it out, though I did see a HUGE turtle eating the algae about 4 ft in front of (but slightly below) me.

Didn't have a map for today, so this is the one for 19th - but still Isabella island!

Green sea turtle feeding off the algae just below us - it was huge and took no notice of us at all. It is fantastic watching them move through the water, afraid of nothing as they can retreat inside their tough shell.

Friday 17 Feb 2012. Isabela Island and Volcano Chico

Got up at 4.45 and had breakfast at 5.30 as we needed to get a good start for our longest walk yet. Left in the pangas at 6.20 and went on an open-sided but for a rough ride up to a kids campsite. We set off on the first part of the walk – 3km up a track which was a bit muddy but not too bad. That took us a whole hour!!! Then we had a 20 minute stop to re-group and to split into those going to the top of the volcano and those staying behind. Another 5km walk took us to the centre of the latest eruption. <

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There was a field of fumaroles 11km in diameter, steaming and black like Mordor, which looked like it had a road running across the middle! The “camera crew” lagged behind as always and, again, got Darwin to stay behind with them for a “piece to camera”!

It rained when we got to the top but was still fascinating with one small crater where the rock was bright orange. On the way back I had a nasty fall, tripping over a bit of lava and my forehead hit the rock hard. Blood soaked the sweat-band of my hat, I grazed my left arm and bruised my knee. Val and Paula took good care of me, cleaning up the wound and applying plasters supplied by S-J. By the time Darwin re-joined us I was ready to start walking again. Once on my feet, I was fine – it looked much worse than it was.

Once back on board we had lunch of fish soup, prawn casserole with veg and beans with chives. Had a quiet, lazy afternoon on board, removed the plasters and cleaned up my forehead (the blood under the plasters made it look horrendous!). It had stopped bleeding and looked much better, though there was a big lump and bruising.

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